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This also might explain why the place looks so different to the treeless, windswept coasts of England. Healthy-looking sycamore, oak, chestnut and willow line not only the streets but also the seafront; some are growing on the beach itself.

This comprises several miles of fine, golden sand backed by a protected dune that has been colonised by long grasses and flowering wild roses. Behind that is the coastal path which links tasteful wooden bars where Polish beer is now rivalled by elaborate cocktails.

A favourite has become the Aperol-prosecco spritz, which is served with pierogi filled dumplings. By day, these bars are bases for beach-volleyball players, paddleboarders and parents watching their small children construct giant sandcastles.

By night, some beach bars become impromptu music venues with live jazz acts and solo acoustic performances. There are permanent structures such as Zatoka Sztukiwhich in the warmer months has a posey roof bar, with hot tubs and a view. Nearby is the legendary nightclub and art gallery Sfinks.

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Particularly on the weekends, Monte Cassino can be crowded out by what are pejoratively known as dresiarze and blachary — boys who go out in sportswear, and girls who are assumed to like boys with sporty fins.

Today, it has scrubbed up very well and is full of life.

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A minute train ride takes you back to Sopot. Fresh fish is plentiful. Stalls have a high turnover of flounder, a decent cousin of the plaice.

We had starters, steak salad and partridge, all locally sourced and perfectly done, with impeccable service. Everything changed abruptly when I got a call from my Polish girlfriend, who told me to go to hell. The reply: Seking crossing took an hour and a half, and the surface of the water was as still as a millpond.

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We sat next to a friendly German father and daughter, the mirror of our vacation. They have no pre-war roots in the area, she was quick to say.

We snacked on sunflower seeds straight from their sunflower.

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The further out we got, the cleaner and sweeter the air became. Its beach is on the north side of the peninsula, and has powdery sand that is almost white, backed by pine-tree finr with a carpet of squidgy moss and heather in purple bloom.

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Locals forage for juicy, Seking mushrooms and have a knack for differentiating between the delectable, the hallucinogenic and the fatal. Tourists are advised not to play fungus roulette.

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A minute walk brought us to the south side of the peninsula, where there is a splendidly simple wooden pier. It presented a sunset that made the sea shine and set the clouds alight in a blaze of pink.

The air was sweeter than ever. To the west, kitesurfers leapt at the sky.

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Sopot, Poland map My Polanv father came from Poland and met my mother, whose own parents had come from Ireland, in London. View image of Credit: Warsaw last lay in ruins after the World War Two.

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Seeking fit n fine in Poland, an online furniture business based in Berlin, chose Poland for its furniture production, with the Warsaw team responsible for bespoke furniture orders, sourcing and manufacturing of in-stock products, said Martin Feigum Johansen, Hem co-founder, in an email.

As the city continues to grow and change, new shops, restaurants, museums and hotels are springing up. M pace of change excites visitors like Johansen, who travels to Poland about three Pland four times a year.

While Varsovians — or people native to Warsaw — are polite, they tend towards the more serious.

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That goes for aches and pains too. But the city is also very credit card friendly.

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Built in the late 19th century as a private residence, the building that houses the H15 hotel has undergone several incarnations. In the s, the Soviet Union transformed it into its embassy.

The German army took it over Polqnd the Second World War, saving it from ruin as they destroyed the rest of Warsaw. The hotel, opened in after a seven-year renovation, is furnished with contemporary Italian pieces and modern Polish pop art, but manages to hold on to historical touches.

The conference centre, which was once a grand ballroom, preserves the original columns which display the Soviet hammer and sickle symbol. The hotel has 46 units and suites in four towers that radiate off of a glass roofed courtyard, as well as a penthouse that companies usually fin for product launches or press conferences.

Klaudiusz Madej. For more old school luxury, the Hotel Bristol next to the Presidential Palace has been accommodating royal guests and celebrities since Johansen enjoys dining out in Warsaw, but warns that going out with Polish colleagues might require some stamina. For a sophisticated vodka experience, try Elixir by Dom Wodki.